Thursday, September 13, 2018

Error Code P0521-GMC Sierra/Silverado Circa 2010 Models





Just bought a brand new pre-owned vehicle from the dealership and my check engine light came on and I couldn't believe it. I took it down to the local auto parts store and got a digital readout for the error code. This came up as P0521 which was oil pressure related. I figured I'd start with the basics or start with the cheapest fix first. So I checked my oil. Sure enough it was low. I went and purchased the correct oil and filled it to the correct level. Sure enough, after starting again, the check engine light had disappeared.

If you are not used to trucks or cars with bigger motors, often times you will find yourself adding more oil to them than you would have in the past with vehicles containing smaller sized engines. Below is a diagnostic code reader if you want to save yourself a trip to the parts store to have the code read out.



One of the things to be aware of is not to overfill our oil. This can cause engine problems as well. If you are just topping off you oil make sure to just add a little at a time to avoid overfilling. Take your time and check the dipstick often. It takes a minute or so for the oil to settle and accurately read on the dipstick. Also, check your owner's manual to see what kind of oil your vehicle should take. Another helpful tip or the a reason that your vehicle may be running low on oil is that it could have a leak somewhere. Does your driveway or place you park have fresh drops of oil on the ground?


If you detect oil drops coming from your vehicle you may just start with the simple stuff first before tearing into it too far. When the vehicle is cool, make sure the oil filter is hand tight and also make sure your oil pan plug is in tight. If you've taken your vehicle in to get an oil change they may have left something loose.

Wednesday, September 12, 2018

DIY-How to Remove Countertop Ceramic Tile Backsplash





Thinking of removing tile yourself? It's pretty easy as long as you take some precautions. The goal is to leave the underlying surface suitable for re-installation of whatever you decide to install. In this case, I planned on installing mosaic pattern backsplash glass tile and granite countertops. I did not film it years ago, but I installed all of this countertop and backsplash tile so it was tough (emotionally) to remove it as it was a lot of work getting it installed years ago. That being said the idea of granite countertops and a more modern looking backsplash was encouraging during it all.



One tip when removing tile from drywall is that you don't want to use the underlying drywall as a pivot point for your removal tool if at all possible as it can just cave it or rip a big hole you'll need to repair. The chisel (pry bar) and hammer method is best for removal on this stuff. Also it's best if you are not in a huge hurry and can take your time removing this stuff as less collateral damage is likely to occur.



Be sure to wear eye protection as little chunks of sharp tile come flying off. You will get some in your eye if you don't.



This stuff does fly everywhere using this removal method so cover up any holes, crevices, appliances, or furniture you do not want to get tile particles in them.



It's a little intimidating at the very beginning when destructively removing ceramic tile but once you realize that it's all got to be removed, you will just keep pushing forward with the job. Grab yourself an empty bucket too in which to put the scraps of removed tile in as the edges are like glass so a bucket makes hauling it out of your removal location easier. A wheelbarrow would work well too.



Good luck and get to work!

Flex Seal Aluminum Boat Leak Repair-As Seen on TV





This "As seen on tv!" Flex Seal did the trick. I've used it for a lot of different applications and it's an overall useful product. I've used it for plugging holes where ants are coming in, used it for various adhesive applications, and of course this old leaky Jon boat. It's important to apply to a clean surface for best results. Make sure you have adequate ventilation when you are applying this stuff. Many times it will take multiple coats to do the trick. I would say that this is great for an overall short term fix for many things and not necessarily a permanent fix.
Warning: This will not work if you slice your boat in half and try to glue it back together.

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

DIY Self Closing Door Hinge Installation Tutorial





These Self Closing Hinges are very nice to have installed in your house. They are relatively cheap to purchase and simple to install. You can adjust how much tension you want applied to the door which will make your door easier or harder to open as well as how hard you want the door to shut.



Tools Needed:



You can perform this task with a phillips head hand held screwdriver but it's a lot quicker if you are able to use a cordless drill. You will also need the associated allen wrench that comes with the hinge or find the correct size in your pile of allen wrenches.



1. Phillips head screwdriver

2. Allen wrench





Installation:

1. Remove Old Hinge by unscrewing existing screws. Use middle hinge on a 3 hinge door. This is not a necessary step. You can install this in addition to the existing hinges but it may appear a little visually odd.



2. Loosen adjustment on new hinge by unthreading Allen screw at the top of self adjusting hinge. This will allow the hinge to open up for installation.



3. Screw new hinge into the door frame and door.



Adjustment:

1. On top of the hinge is an allen head adjustment screw. Hinge tension can be adjusted by either tightening or loosing of this allen head screw. You can mess around with the adjustment and figure out which one you like best.



Best of luck!

Monday, September 10, 2018

How to replace Weed Wacker Line troy Bilt weed wacker line replacement i...





Although necessary and useful tools, weed wackers in general have traditionally been a royal pain in the ass over the past few decades. From starting them (or NOT!) through the painstaking process of replacing the line on them. It can be very frustrating. I don't know about you but I've performed the flying weedwacker trick a times and called them every name in the book.

I must give the manufacturers credit as they have attempted to remedy the frustration somewhat. They've come out with 4-cycle weed wackers to make starting easier as well as removing the whole perfect gas mixture puzzle.

My goal here is to show you how to replace the line on this model of weed wacker. In case you need one or a new one here's the amazon link to it.

It's amazingly easy if you do it right. If you try to wind it yourself with the cap off, you'll screw it all up. Ask me how I know this.

1. To accomplish this arduous task, after popping the top on the working end of the wacker (by depressing tabs), you insert the line through one of the holes in the internal (black colored) part.



2. Run the line through each islet of the red portion of the cap that you've removed. Then run the cap down the lines until it mates up with it's counterpart, then snap it in.



3. Once snapped in, push in and manually wind the line onto the spool.



Simple huh? Way better than the old models.



Now cross your fingers it starts.





So you've decided to pull the trigger on a new four stroke easy starting Troy-Bilt Cadillac. Congratulations. I know that when I bought one I was so excited that I could hardly wait to get home, get it out of the box, get it put together, and get it fired up. This tutorial is taking you through the process of Unboxing and using this great Troy Bilt Weed Wacker. The first thing to do is get the packaging open, pull out your parts and get them all played out on the ground. Then take the handle and pull out the keeper insert that is in place and snap the two handle pieces together. The springloaded pin on the silver side should snap through the hole in the red side locking it into place. The next step is to install the black plastic guard in for the rotating cutting head using the wing nuts. Now for the black plastic handle installation. Unscrew the one bolt that goes through it, snap the handle on in a comfortable location on the stem of and then place the bolt back through the hole and snug it up. Once you have the handle in the perfect position for your body type that is comfortable for you, then tighten it down all the way. Add the provided oil in the oil receptacle with the yellow cap on it. Now put in regular unleaded gasoline in the gas canister. Prime the weed weed wacker a few times, put on your safety gear and fire it up. Buy one on amazon here: https://amzn.to/2Yu3ZYs For years the old lawn edgers "weed wackers" would run really good when you first purchased them and then once you let them sit for various periods of time between lawn mowing sessions, it would be hell getting them started. I've seen more weed wackers tossed across lawns in my time than homelite chainsaws. The older ones had 2 cycle motors and if you didn't have exactly the correct oil/gas mixture the weed wacker would either not start, smoke the whole place up, or the motor would bog down. I have experienced all of this first hand being starting at a young age watching my father fight these evil little machines and then also myself as I grew up mowing lawns for extra money and then of course my own. There were numerous occasions where all I had left to do was some touch up around the edges after pushing a heavy mower across meters and meters of lawn and I'd spend more time and expend more sweat trying to get the damn thing started again. Even before I'd go out on jobs, I'd make sure the damn thing started before I left my house. It would still find a way to let me down once it was needed. Like a Sailor The frustration caused by the old weed wackers could make a preacher swear. Ok maybe not out loud but inside. I've called these things every name in the book and have probably set the distance record for yards thrown. Not only were the old motors an issue on the older weed wackers but the line feed mechanism on the working end of the contraption often wreaked havoc on the operator's emotions. I would venture to say that no matter what kind of weed wacker you owned back in the day, you probably had both the line feeder mechanism and/or the motor taken apart on it (except maybe a Stihl) before the first year of ownership was up. The older models made it pretty tough to change out the line or even replace it if it got stuck up inside the feeder mechanism causing much frustration and chewing up your clock. There was no youtube or internet readily available at your fingertips, you either had to figure it out or toss it. Sore Starting Muscles I can't count how many times that I would wake up the next day with a very sore and stiff upper back and then at first wonder what I did to it the day before. Then it dawns on me. Oh that's right, I tried starting that damn weed wacker by pulling on the pull starter 2000 times over the course of the day yesterday. Then it lingers for the next couple days just for good measure.





Sunday, September 9, 2018

Removing Old Baseboard Heaters and Upgrading to New Ones

Baseboard heaters can be very dangerous and are nearly the least preferred out of many heat sources available for use with a house. If you are wanting  to remove them the video up above shows exactly how to do that. The reason I took mine out was because the house nearly caught on fire because of them. I had to re-install new ones years later due to the potential of selling the house. I used wood heat in place of the baseboards for many years.
For baseboard heater removal:

Step 1: Turn off breaker and double check power is off w/voltage sensor.

Step 2: Unscrew panel to the right or left on the heater itself to expose wires.

Step 3: Unthread wire nuts and pull apart wires.

Step 4: Unmount the heater from the wall.

Step 5: Properly cap/disposition the wires. If you are not installing new baseboard heaters right away, install electrical box in wall and secure wires this way. If you are able to, leave the breaker/s off for the circuit until you are ready to install new heaters.



Installing upgraded baseboard heaters can be refreshing. They look new and there's a little extra confidence that they'll be a little safer and more efficient. Once you've made this decision to replace them, take a look at the two videos above. Installing them is very easy. Be sure you've double checked that the power is still off before messing around with any of the wiring. The first video shows you how to re-install the new baseboard heater itself. The second one shows you how to install the face mounted thermostat.
This is a nice feature because the temperature control itself is right on the face of the baseboard heater. This just gives you more options to adjust each heater individually. The cost on them is around $20 to $25 each. Using these can also provide some added safety reassurance in case the thermostat malfunctions and the heaters come on when not desired. This was the original reason I uninstalled the old baseboard heaters in the first place.
If you are performing all these upgrades, you may as well upgrade and install a new thermostat as well, if one exists. I want to emphasize safety here. Let me be clear, it is always best to hire a licensed electrician to do this work. If you choose to DIY, make sure to turn off the power and use a non-contact voltage sensor like the one in the link provided below.

Be careful and best of luck.

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