DIY "How-to" Milwakee Sawzall Blade Change out for Dummies

A reciprocating saw is a wonderful tool and I've used them for thousands of handyman DIY construction and repair tasks over the years. This is a must-have for the power tool collection. Even though to many, it may be blatantly obvious how to change out a blade, it may not be to others or beginners. The first thing, like any other power tool blade or wheel change out operation, unplug the damn thing. I've seen a lot of injuries and almost got a few myself for being stupid or careless and not taking the simple step of unplugging the tool before changing out the blade, wheel, or bit. Once unplugged, you'll need an Allen wrench that fits the Allen head set screw in the reciprocating head. Typically these come with one but many of us lose these things. Loosen the set screw and the blade will come out. Many new models of reciprocating saws have quick disconnect style fittings on them so no wrench may be necessary depending on the model you have. Grab your fresh blade and place it back into the same position and insert it into the slot. Then tighten the Allen head set screw. You are now good to go.



If you don't have one or need a new one, here is a link on amazon to have one delivered: https://amzn.to/34AejAA



www.diy-technician.com

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This was a very fun welding fabrication project.  Although I had a couple fire pits this one fit really well onto the back patio for use making smaller fires. My neighbor, who is an automotive mechanic, gave me an old empty coolant container. Knowing I was a welder who liked to tinker and weld junk metal together, he always brings me interesting parts to make stuff from.

I made sure it was empty by drilling a hole into the top first just to be sure there wasn't anything left in it. Using an electric corded angle grinder I cut the top off the container. There was a weld seam around it that I used as a guide or cut line.  I had some 1/4" wide flatbar laying around that I bent into a circle matching the same diameter as the tank. The flatbar was very soft so I was able to bend it by hand and weld the end together. Using the same size flatcar, I cut 4 riser pieces approximately 6" long and ground the mil scale off the ends to shiny metal. This makes a better surface to weld. I then welded those risers to the bottom larger portion of the container. I then welded the circular flatbar piece to the 4 risers. This portion is in an effort to create somewhat of an access or viewing window to the flames that will live inside the tank as well as create a seat for the top lid to set upon. I had some wire mesh laying around to it seemed natural to cut out a section and wire tie it to the viewing window (access) portion of the fire pit. I would have like to weld it in place but it's too thin so I decided to use metal wire instead. I drilled holes to for which to run the wire through and secure it in place.

For the legs, I had some rebar laying around so it seemed like a good idea to use these to bring it off the ground a bit. While welding these it's important to focus your heat on the rebar as the tank wall is very thin. If you sit on the tank wall too long or apply too much heat to it, you'll blow right through the wall. I tacked them all in place first and didn't get in a hurry thereby keeping them cool before proceeding to weld more.

I had some other bent round stock laying around so it seemed like a good use for some handles to move the thing with. I cut and welded those on in the same fashion as the legs.

I went and purchased a can of high heat paint for the local hardware store and applied a couple coats. I was very happy with the results. The guitar playing is me just messing around as these videos are an excuse for me to play and use it for theme music.